Planet of the Apes

Portland definitely has character. Lots of it. How many other places do you know where you'd see a man in a 'Planet of the Apes' themed van, playing 'Lucy in the Sky With Diamonds' with a dancing monkey hanging out the window all while sitting outside of a Starbucks on a Friday afternoon. I love Portland, all of her quirks and all.

On Thursday we left Portland behind for a little while and drove to Seattle. The day was mostly cloudy so any views from the space needle were pretty much completely obstructed. No worries though, we still made the most out of our day. We ate lunch at Salumi's, Mario Batalli's (the Italian chef with the orange crocks) father's deli. They house cure all their own meats and such. Good stuff. Good sandwiches. There is almost always a line so we were glad to be able to get in and get a seat. We walked through Pike Place Market. Lots of fresh veggies, local artisans and all around general touristy stuff. Very fun. One of the most unique things we had a chance to do was sample a Chinese tea tasting. We were able to sample a variety of teas from oolong to black tea.

Friday was spent back in Oregon. We drove the Columbia River Gorge Highway. Absolutely breathtaking. The highway was the first paved road in Oregon. It is a stretch of about 15 miles where visitors can see scenic overlooks of the Columbia River capped by views of rolling hills and, on a clear day, Mt Hood. Mt Hood has still not revealed herself while we've been here. I'm beginning to think it's all just a myth locals make up at the expense of tourists. Along the way we were able to get out and do some hiking. Lots of easy to moderate trails with spectacular views of waterfalls. We hiked to the top of one of the more famous falls called Multnomah Falls. The hike was a mile to the top. Straight up. With a total of 11 switchbacks. The view was impressive, I suppose, just as long as you aren't hanging on to the edge of the railing like I was. Definitely not the ideal location for those scared of heights like myself.

Last night we went to a local comedy show at the Baghdad Theatre run by a local kitschy chain called McMenimans. The theatre is an old hollywood style movie theatre. They serve you food and beer while you watch the show. How can you go wrong? The same chain owns another location called Kennedy School which is a former high school that has been converted into a movie theatre and hotel rooms. You can actually stay in an old classroom. Just another example of Portland's character.

Today we went wine tasting in the Willamette Valley. We started out not really having a game plan. The first location we went to was a co-op, housing several different wineries. The folks there were super helpful and we were able to offer some suggestions for some really stellar vineyards. I was afraid that some of the tasting rooms would be a little stuffy. Not the case at all. Every location was a sort of 'mom and pop' operation. One of the standouts was Arbor Brook. The owner was super genuine. I suppose we were a little partial to this location because the owner's daughter walked in wearing a North Carolina shirt. We knew they had to be good people. We had great conversation and great wine all day.

Tomorrow we start our trip back to San Fransisco and begin our journey home. I am definitely sad to leave Portland behind. I will miss all of her little quirks.

For a more detailed breakdown of our time in Portland, click here.

Keep Portland Weird

The blog is back! John and I are in Portland, OR going on day three of our Pacific NW tour. I am enjoying our trip to the Pacific NW so much that I felt a new post was warranted. So far, much of our time has revolved around food. Good food. I will regress a little bit and start from the beginning.

We flew into San Fransisco on Easter Sunday and spent some time with my dad. Monday we spent in the city. We had the opportunity to go up to Twin Peaks for some spectacular views of the city. We're talking full panoramic views of the skyline bookended by the pacific on one side and the bay on the other. Awesome. We went to a vegetarian restaurant called Greens. The restaurant is in an area called Fort Mason, an old army base that has been renovated into shops, restaurants and condos, situated on the water overlooking the Golden Gate Bridge. The menu is vegetarian and specializes in local produce. The flavors were outstanding. Even John, the perpetual carnivore, enjoyed it. We could not ask for a nicer evening as we sat and watched the sunset kiss the top of the Golden Gate and then set below the hills.

Yesterday we drove from San Francisco to Portland. We made the trip in a meager 15 hours. The drive was draining but completely worth it. We drove up the 101 along the coast and through the redwoods. The redwood forests are beyond description, dwarfing everything around them. Standing next to them would make any human feel insignificant. I am glad we decided to take the scenic route. We were able to get some awesome shots of the coastline as well.

Portland is simply amazing. All of the advantages of a big city minus the pretentiousness. The vibe of the city is unique and truly warrants it's mantra 'keep Portland weird.' The people have been welcoming, patient. Enthusiastic cheerleaders for their city. And rightly so. We have only been here one day, and already I'm a fan. The city is nestled in a valley surrounded by expansive natural area. When the city was mapped out, there was an unofficial 'line' drawn around the city, limiting sprawl. As a result, you get thoughtful, intelligent design and lay out so developers can get the most bang for their buck. This, I think, gives the city an inviting welcoming feel. Getting around is intuitive and not overwhelming.

This morning we went to Washington Park to the Japanese Gardens and the Rose Garden. The Japanese Gardens were something to see. The gardens evoke a sense of balance and tranquility. The park consists of five separate gardens, each with a distinct concept and purpose. The layout of the garden is meticulous. Each plant was carefully contrived at conception. Each plant is carefully pruned. The highlight of the experience is an incredible view overlooking the city with Mt Hood serving as the backdrop. Sadly, the weather was too foggy today to see Mt Hood but the views were spectacular nonetheless.

Now to talk about the food which, like I mentioned, has really been the center of our time here so far. The imaginary sprawl 'line' that I talked about earlier is a huge part of the Portland food culture. Since growth within city limits, Portland boasts the smallest 'farm to fork' ratio in the country. Meaning, the time it takes fresh produce to reach consumers is the shortest anywhere in the US. As a result, food is fresh and affordable. This afternoon we had lunch at a local food cart, one of the new trends in Portland's food scene due to their low start up costs and wide reach. We had authentic Vietnamese cuisine while sitting at a folding card table on the side of the road. And it was outstanding. Brings a whole new meaning to 'fast food', proving that quick meals can still be healthy. This afternoon, we were on a culinary tour. (See, I told you we have done a lot of eating). Highlights included a boutique chocolate shop called Cacao, specializing in single source chocolate. We sampled dark drinking chocolate. Sinful, really. We went to an oil and vinegar sampling room. I was doubtful at first. Drinking olive oil. Nasty, right? I was proven wrong in the best way. Some of our samples included a strawberry balsamic, that is so savory it is often served over ice cream or pound cake. We also went to a local coffee shop. We went to a tea and spice shop and sampled different salts. One of the highlights was a truffle salt served with avocado. And finally authentic Bosnian cuisine from a street vendor that was divine. With all of this food, I am going to have to run another marathon when I get back!

Tomorrow we go to Seattle to complete our tour of the Pacific NW. Portland has certainly given Seattle a lot to live up to.

Marathon Finish

London is Wicked.

Today was another whirlwind. I will keep in short tonight and recap some of the highlights. We saw the Tower of London and the royal jewels that are housed there. The queen's diamonds put mine to shame. We had a wonderful tour guide who was funny and kept us laughing the whole time with jokes that took a stab at pretty much everyone, French, Italian. Blond, Male and Female. He was a riot.

We went to a pub for lunch and I had the obligatory fish and chips meal with a pint. I did feel a little silly though when we asked for an Amstel Light and the bartender informed us they do not serve anything light. What, a girl's gotta keep her figure...

From there we saw St Paul's Cathedral where Princess Diana and Prince Charles were married and then walked across the Millennium Bridge to the Tate Modern museum. The Tate Modern was really neat. We were able to see several works by Andy Warhol and large installation pieces that took up entire rooms. Some we understood more than others. I guess that's modern art for you though. I'm anxious to see how it stacks up to the Bechtler at home.

Tonight we saw Wicked. It was wonderful. The music was really great. The play is a prequel to the Wizard of Oz story and it really is worth seeing. It is coming to Charlotte soon and I highly recommend getting tickets!

Tomorrow we leave London for Paris again and begin our journey home. I can't believe our trip is almost over. I am looking forward though to sleeping in my own bed again. I will miss the housekeeping service though. John not so much. He has live-in service. I kid because I love.

Cheers!

Look to the right before crossing.

Whew. What a day. My eyes are getting super heavy as I sit down to write. Our first day and a half in London has been jam-packed and has taken us to many of the famous sites. And yes, if on foot in London, do remember to look to the right first, instead of the left, before crossing the street. The little cultural idiosyncrasies really do make make all the difference. We enraged several a taxi driver during our first few hours in London as pedestrians. Stupid Americans.

Upon arriving yesterday we saw Buckingham Palace. I am sad to report that the guards are now behind closed gates so I did not have the opportunity to try out my jokes. We then went Abbey Road. Home of the famous Beatles album cover. We then strolled through the Notting Hill district which is full of posh homes and shops. It is a quaint neighborhood that feels more like a suburb than a major city.

Today was a whirlwind. We started the day with Westminster Abbey. We were able to take a guided tour which we enjoyed a lot. It was interesting to see all the famous tombs and memorials. One individual in particular to note that is buried at the Abbey is Darwin. The guide noted the irony and we all had a laugh. We went through several museums which, like the Smithsonian, are free. We toured the National Gallery, National Portrait Gallery and the British Museum. The National Gallery houses famous paintings spanning across several decades and continents. Including Monet's waterlillies painting and Van Gough's sunflowers. At the British Museum we were able to see the Rosetta Stone and pieces from the sphinx at the Pyramids of Giza. We toured Charles Dickens' house which was a little bit of a let down. They are currently remodeling it in anticipation of the 2012 Olympics.

We ate dinner tonight at Jamie Oliver's restaurant, 'Jamie's Italian'. We have been watching his show, 'Food Revolution' and decided to try it out. The food was delicious. Fresh food, of course. That is his mantra. The restaurant is in the Canary Wharf district which is primarily commercial. We felt like locals, eating with people just getting off from work and meeting for drinks and dinner. It was nice to get that type of perspective.

Tomorrow we have tickets to Wicked and I am pumped. I cannot wait to see it. We plan on seeing the London Eye tomorrow. Jury is still out on weather John will be able to actually get me to go up.

London so far has been fantastic and we are thoroughly enjoying our time here. The people seem to have such a fun-loving, adventurous spirit.

More later.

All Aboard

I've decided to make use of the free wi-fi on board the train. We are currently on board a train from Amsterdam to Brussels. From Brussels we'll hop on the Eurostar to travel underneath the Chunnel to get to London.

I cannot rave enough about the European train system. So far it has been more timely than any other form of transportation I have taken. Our tickets had a departure time of 11:16 and we pulled out of the station at 11:16. Amazing. We are getting to enjoy the luxuries of first class on this trip from Amsterdam to London. I feel quite pampered. I think I could get used to this. If only Euros grew on trees, right?

John and I are planning our 'to-do' list for London and it is becoming a little daunting. I have decided this is due to our familarity with British history and lack thereof of French history. I'm sure there is so much more that we could have seen in Paris that we just did not know about or did not even recognize as important. I will have to brush up before going back to France again so as not to fullfill the sterotype of 'ignorant American.'

That's all for now. We are getting close to Brussels. We will be in London soon. I am brushing up on my jokes and have every intention of making the guard at Buckingham Palace laugh. How can he resist my jokes? I'm sure anyone that has heard my jokes, including my coworkers if they are reading, are laughing just thinking about it. (What do you call a cow with no legs? Ground beef)


Cheers!

Paris to Amsterdam

All is well on the European front. We finished up our time in Paris yesterday and are now in Amsterdam. Yesterday we went to Montmartre which is a funky little neighborhood in the 18th district and is currently the 'it' scene for trendy artists and musicians. We were there early in the morning so it wasn't very lively, but you were able to get the feel nonetheless. Montmartre is home to Moulin Rouge and also Sacre-Coeur which is the second-highest point in Paris next to the Eiffel Tower. We were able to see Sacre-Coeur but not Moulin Rouge. Sacre-Coeur is a beautiful white-washed cathederal that boasts a pretty impressive dome at the top. It is still used for services today.

We also were able to go to the Louve. We were able to see the standards, the Mona Lisa (and yes, she does stare at you from every angle, creepy really), armless Aphrodite and the original headless Samothrace or Nike. It was also neat to see the original moat the runs underneath the Louve from it's original days as a working castle. The architecture of the Louve itself is really something. There are grand murals scrolled on the ceiling domes that evoke a sense of the Sistine Chapel. At times, the history and architecture of the Louve overshadowed the works inside. After we finished at the Louve we strolled through the Jardin des Tuileries or Garden of Tulips. There were surprisingly few tulips though. We the took a quick look through the Musse d O'rsay which houses a large number of the Impressionist paintings including a traveling Van Gough exhibit that we were able to catch. Finally, we went to the top of the Eiffel Tower and were able to get some great photos. Or, I should say, John was able to get some great photos. I pretty much stood back and gripped the railing.

This morning we took the train from Paris to Amsterdam. Train travel is the way to go. It is a shame that Eisenhower's interstate system took off the way it did in the US. Train travel is much more efficient and comfortable. Definitely a note we should take from the Europeans.

Amsterdam is wonderful. Such a picturesque town that feels more like a quaint village at times than the major metropolitan city that it is. Much of the architecture is reminiscent of what is seen in the US, both old and new. Many of the brownstone buildings that you would see in Brooklyn are modeled after the homes in Amsterdam and the modern architecture that many major cities are adopting began with the Dutch. The feel of the city itself reminded me a lot more of home. We took a canal tour through all of the major water ways and bridges which was fun but seemed more like a tourist trap than anything. We are lunch at a local pub and had of course Heineken and toasted cheese sandwiches which is apparently a staple around here. We toured the Anne Frank museum where her and her family were hidden for so many years. The exhibit was powerful and they have done a tasteful job with the conveyance of the message. We just got home from dinner at a wonderful Italian restaurant called 'Incanto'. The food was delicious. I had a chickpea and pumpkin (which, by the way, was spelled 'pumpkin', not 'pomkin') lasagna.

The people of Amsterdam are really quite amazing. I am so impressed with the number of languages that are spoken. Not only do the speak Dutch which seems to sound like a beautiful mixture of French and German, most of the natives also speak one or more other languages as well. Everyone that we have met has been able to speak near perfect English and has had no problem conversing with us. Some of them I think speak better English than I do at times. I wish we had more than a day in Amsterdam.

If there is one thing that I have learned so far during this journey and the more and more I travel is that people seem to have more commonalities than differences. I only wish that we were able to focus on these similarities more. I think with a little more understanding, the world could be much more unified.

Tomorrow we take on London and all she has to offer. Time is running out and our trip is nearly half over. There is so much left I would like to see. I guess there always needs a reason to come back later.